Installation Instructions for rear brake kits, BlackHawk.
Installation of any component or kit should only be performed by
persons experienced in the installation and proper operation of disk
brake systems. It is the responsibility of the person installing any
brake component or kit to determine the suitability of the component
or kit for that particular application.
*NOTE. If you are doing both front and rear brakes it is advisable to do one axle at a time to simplify diagnostics.
- Jack up car, support on jack stands.
- Remove wheel.
- Remove caliper, don’t disconnect brake lines yet or the fluid will
drip all over.
- It is recommended that the dust shield be removed for best rotor cooling.
However this requires removal of the rear bearing carrier and is
beyond the scope of these instructions.
90 degree –3AN fitting to caliper. Use Teflon tape or other
brake resistant sealant on the pipe threads. Mount the fitting so
the open end will be facing the rear of the car.
the mounting surface of the hub of all dirt, rust and casting flash
that may interfere with the adapter bracket.
the adapter bracket in place of the stock caliper. Verify that the
bracket sits square and tight against the mounting surface. File or
grind either the bracket or the bearing housing as required. If the
bracket is not tight against the mounting surface, check for the
bolts bottoming out, or bracket / hub interference.
- Torque bolts to 40 ft lbs. Verify that the bracket sits square on the
- Check for interference between rotor and caliper by spinning the rotor. If
they touch, loosen the bracket mounting bolts and reposition.
- Check that the –3AN fitting is pointing towards the rear of the car.
- Connect the straight end of the supplied –3 AN flexible brake line to
- Loosen and remove the caliper hard line.
- Mount caliper onto bracket, use a shim washer between caliper and bracket
to center caliper over rotor if necessary. Torque caliper bolts to 40ft lbs.
- Connect the –3AN straight flare fitting to the frame fitting on the
trailing arm as shown in picture 1 below.
- Connect the 90-degree end of the flex line to the fitting on the trailing
arm and tighten securely.
Picture1: This shows the 90 degree flex line to the trailing arm fitting.
- The flex line must follow the trailing arm to the caliper, there it
makes a loop up to the caliper fitting (see picture below). This is
to allow the caliper to be rotated so the bleed screws are pointing
up for bleeding per picture 3.
- Place pads into caliper and tighten bridge bolt
- Bleed brakes. Caliper must be loosened and rotated with the front of
the caliper pointing straight up or air will remain forever in the
caliper! After bleeding is complete, lay caliper down and torque
bolts to 40ft lbs
- Tighten the fittings and verify that the brake line does not interfere with
the suspension during movement. Check all suspension compression
- Recheck all fasteners.
- Replace wheels.
- Ensure you have a firm pedal before driving car. If the pedal is soft you
must resolve the issue before continuing.
- Pressure test the brakes by applying a minimum of 200 lbs force to the pedal
for 30 seconds. Then check for leaks at all connections. Any leaks
must be resolved before continuing.
- Low speed test the brakes at less that 10 MPH in a traffic free area.
Check for pulling and dragging both during braking and non-braking
- Brake bedding. Bed the brake pads per the included bedding procedure.
- Inspect the caliper, mounting bracket and brake lines regularly and after
any racing event.
Picture 2: This shows the routing of the flexible line to the caliper.
Picture 3: This shows the position the caliper needs to be in for bleeding.